Free Crochet Pattern and Tutorial: Amigurumi Teddy Bear – Craft Your Own Cuddly Companion

Embrace the cozy world of crochet with our amigurumi free pattern and tutorial for crafting an adorable amigurumi teddy bear! Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter or just starting out, this project is perfect for bringing a touch of warmth and nostalgia into your crafting repertoire. With its soft yarn and simple stitches, this teddy bear is as cuddly as it is charming. Follow along with our step-by-step tutorial to create your own lovable companion and add a dash of sweetness to your crochet collection.

MATERİALS

Bear knitted from Alize Angora Real 40 yarn (wool 40%, acrylic 60%)

At 100g-480m

Hook 1.25.

The bear is knitted with one piece from the feet to the crown.

Be sure to use the frame to keep the toy

the shape, and most importantly the head, because the bear’s neck is very thin.

Abbreviations:

SC – single crochet

İNC – increase

DEC – decrease

CH – chain

PATTERN

FEET BODY

We start knitting with the legs. The marker passes strictly behind the leg.

Left foot

9 ch

We start knitting in the second loop of the chain.

1p-7sc, 3sc in one loop, on the other side of the chain

6sc, inc = 18p

2p-inc, 6sc, incx3,6sc, incx2 = 24p

3p-1sc, inc, 6HDC., (1sc, inc) x3.6HDC., (1sc, inc) x2 = 30p

4p-inc, 4HDC., 8DC., IncDCx3., 8DC., 4HDC., Inc x2 = 36p

5p-7p -36sc (3 rows)

8p- (4sc, dec) x6 = 30p

9p-30sc

10р- (3sc, dec) х6 = 24п + 1shift loop

11p-3sc, (1sc, dec) x6., 3sc, = 18p

Start stuffing your foot. Stuff the sock is not strong, there will be shorts

for fingers.

Now cut a piece of wire (I have 35cm) to make a loop, insert it into

foot and around the wire still knock padding.

12p-3sc, decx6., 3sc, = 12p

13p-17p-12sc (5 rows)

18p-10sc, 2sc leave, do not tie to the end of the row.

When we connect with the right foot, then these two loops will be the first

loops.

We tear off the thread. To fill.

Right foot

9 ch

We start knitting in the second loop of the chain.

1p-7sc, 3sc in one loop, on the other side of the chain

6sc, inc = 18p

2p-inc, 6sc, incx3,6sc, incx2 = 24p

3p-1sc, inc, 6HDC., (1sc, inc) x3.6HDC., (1sc, inc) x2 = 30p

4p-inc, 4HDC., 8DC., IncDCx3., 8DC., 4HDC., Inc x2 = 36p

5p-7p -36sc (3 rows)

8p- (4sc, dec) x6 = 30p

9p-30sc

10р- (3sc, dec) х6 = 24п + 1shift loop

11p-3sc, (1sc, dec) x6., 3sc, = 18p

Start stuffing your foot. Stuff the sock is not strong, there will be shorts

for fingers.

Now cut a piece of wire (I have 35cm) to make a loop, insert it into

foot and around the wire still knock padding.

12p-3sc, decx6., 3sc, = 12p

13r-18r-12sc (6 rows) make 2 offset loops

To fill.

Do not tear off the thread, continue knitting.

Next, we will connect the legs between each other and into the body.

Body.

19p- 3sc on the right foot, 6 ch, now we take the left foot and begin

knitting from the remaining non-knit stitches 12sc on the left leg,

6sc on ch., 9sc on the right leg.

20p- 3sc, 6sc by ch., 3sc, (inc, 1sc) x3., 12sc- (3sc on the left

leg + 6sc in the chain of ch., + 3sc in the right leg = 12sc).,

(1sc, inc) x3 = 42p

After 20 rows, the thread should be in the center of the right leg, behind.

About the wire. Twist the two wires from the legs together, but

twist only the length of the body plus the neck, in the head two wires should

to be separate.

21p-22p-42sc (2 rows)

23p-4sc, inc x6., (Increase for priests), 12sc, (inc, 1sc) x6., (Increase for

tummy), 8sc = 54p

24r-26r-54sc (3 rows)

27p- (8sc, inc) x6 = 60p

28p-60sc

29p-5sc, inc, (9sc, inc) x5.4sc = 66p

30r-37r-66sc (8 rows)

38p-40sc, (dec, 1sc) x6., 8sc = 60p decrease in the middle of the tummy

39p-60sc

40p-35sc, (dec, 1sc) x6., 7sc = 54p decrease in the middle of the tummy

41r-43r-54sc (3 rows)

44p- (3sc, dec) x6., 24sc = 48p

We begin to fill the body and further, as the body knits, continue

stuffing.

45r-46r- 48sc

47p- (6sc, dec) x6 = 42p

48p-42sc

49p- (5sc, dec) x6 = 36p

50p-36sc

51p- (4sc, dec) x6 = 30p

52p-30sc

53p- (3sc, dec) x6 = 24p

54p- (2sc, dec) x6 = 18p

55r-18sc fill to the end

Neck.

56p-decx9 = 9p

57p-58p-9sc (2 rows)

We turn to knitting the head.

Head.

59p-inc x9 = 18p.

60p- (2sc, inc) x6 = 24p.

61p- (3sc, inc) x6 = 30p.

62p- (4sc, inc) x6 = 36p.

63p- (5sc, inc) x6 = 42p.

64p- (6sc, inc) x6 = 48p.

65p- (7sc, inc) x6 = 54p.

66p- (8sc, inc) x6 = 60p.

67p- (9sc, inc) x6 = 66p.

68p- (10sc, inc) x6 = 72p.

69p- (11sc, inc) x6 = 78p.

70p- (12sc, inc) x6 = 84p.

71r-78r-84sc (8 rows)

From a wire, make such a structure as in the photo, this is for stability

teddy bear heads. The head is big on a thin neck. Will also help

bend your head to the sides.

From this moment, you can gradually and gently fill your head.

The wire should not touch the head, but be inside it. And around

wire stuffing.

It’s better to start stuffing in small lumps, so that gradually

fill the entire head space.

79p-6sc, dec, (12sc, dec) x5., 6sc = 78p.

80p-78sc

81p- (11sc, dec) x6 = 72p.

82p-72sc

83p-5sc, dec, (10sc, dec) x5., 5sc = 66p.

84p-66sc

85p- (9sc, dec) x6 = 60p.

86p-60sc

87p-4sc, dec, (8sc, dec) x5., 4sc = 54p.

88p-54sc

89p- (7sc, dec) x6 = 48p.

90p-48sc

91p-3sc, dec, (6sc, dec) x5., 3sc = 42p.

92p-42sc

93p- (5sc, dec) x6 = 36p.

94p-2sc, dec, (4sc, dec) x5., 2sc = 30p.

95r- (3sc, dec) x6 = 24p.

96p-1sc, dec, (2sc, dec) x5., 1sc = 18p.

97r- (1sc, dec) x6 = 12p.

98p-dec * 6.

Hands. (2 parts)

1p-6sc into magic ring

2p-incx6 = 12p

3p- (1sc, inc) X6 = 18p

4p- (2sc, inc) X6 = 24p

5r-8r- 24sc (4 rows)

9p- (2sc, dec) x6 = 18p

10r-11r- 18sc (2 rows)

12p- (1sc, dec) x6 = 12p Fill your hand, but very weak, so that later you can

was to pull her fingers.

13p-30p- 12sc (18 rows)

Now we need to cut a piece of wire so that it sticks out from the handle by 1.5-2 cm

longer

but insert the wire only after pulling the fingers.

Flatten your palm and embroider two finger stitches,

pulling a little. Fill the handle a little bit.

Muzzle.

(from finishing yarn)

3 ch

We knit in rotary rows, at the end of each row do ch

We start with the second loop of the chain

1p-incx2 = 4sc ch rotation

2p-inc, 2sc, inc = 6sc ch rotation

3p-inc, 4sc, inc = 8sc ch rotation

4p-inc, 6sc, inc = 10sc ch rotation

5p-inc, 8sc, inc = 12sc ch rotation

6p-inc, 10sc, inc = 14sc ch rotation

7p-16p- 14sc (10 rows) ch turn

17p-dec, 10sc, dec = 12sc ch rotation

18p-dec, 8sc, dec = 10sc ch rotation

19p-dec, 6sc, dec = 8sc ch rotation

20p-dec, 4sc, dec = 6sc ch rotation

21p-dec, 2sc, dec = 4sc ch rotation

22p-decx2 = 2sc without turning,

tie the entire muzzle around the perimeter with 2 rows of sc

The ears. (2 parts)

1p-6sc into magic ring

2p-incx6 = 12p

3p- (1sc, inc) X6 = 18p

4p- (2sc, inc) X6 = 24p

5p- (3sc, inc) X6 = 30p

6r-9r- 30sc (4 rows)

Fold the ear in half and the lower edge in two layers, tie 15sc

Inner ear.

(from finishing yarn) 2 parts.

9 ch

We knit in rotary rows, at the end of the row do ch

We start knitting with the second loop of the chain.

1p-3p-8sc, (3 rows) ch turn

4p-dec, 4sc, dec = 6sc ch rotation

5p-dec, 2sc, dec = 4sc break the thread

Sew the eyelet carefully into the main ear.

Inside, the eyelet can be cut out of fabric.

Lining on the stomach.

(from a finishing yarn) 1 item.

1p-6sc into magic ring

2p-incx6 = 12p

3p- (1sc, inc) X6 = 18p

4p- (2sc, inc) X6 = 24p

5p- (3sc, inc) X6 = 30p

6p- (4sc, inc) X6 = 36p

Break the thread.

Assembly.

Before starting the assembly, it is necessary to comb all the details. Can

Velcro, you can use a stitch.

To comb very carefully so as not to change the shape of the parts.

You can insert colored pins in the center of the tummy and in the center of the head,

so that during assembly you orient yourself and arrange the bear symmetrically.

You can immediately sew a patch on the tummy, this will also help determine

with the center of the figure of the bear.

Sew on the muzzle, be sure to add filler, but not much to

the muzzle did not stick forward, but as if protruding slightly forward. She

It is not located in the center of the head, but much down. Somewhere from row 65 (or

through 6 rows from the neck) and up.

Sew on your ears. The bear’s head is not round, and you can see from the sides there are places for

ears.

Make a little eye tightening. To do this, insert the needle behind the head at

neck and withdraw into the first eye, tighten a little bit, return, then from the neck

withdraw into the second eye and back to the neck. Tighten a little and fix the thread.

And because our eyes will be located very close to each other, you can

with one stitch to capture the entire area intended for the eyes, and a little

pull off, do not pull heavily, otherwise they may look like they failed.

In this embodiment, the eyes will be deepened evenly.

Choose the nose and eyes at your discretion. But it is better that the nose is not

small, I have a length of 2.5 cm. If there is no suitable nozzle in size,

it’s easy to make it from plastic or dump it, but you can find a button and

to cover with fabric. There are many options.

The eyes should be placed directly above the muzzle and very close to each other.

Sticks sticking out wire, insert into the body on the sides in the region of 49-50 rows,

sew on. Make sure that your hands are symmetrical.

Sew a patch on the tummy on the most convex part of the abdomen, a drop

add filler.

Embroider a smile and eyebrows. Embroider a smile in one thread so that it is

such is not very noticeable, but eyebrows are better in two strings. Embroider the same

toes and toes.

You can tint the bear a little – cheeks, eyebrows.

Cut several threads from the main yarn and string them on the crown

heads (where we closed the last loops) as we string fringe.

Cut to desired length and fluff. It will be a forelock.

A bear can be made with a felted face and a felted nose. Eyes

make of plastic. Sew on patches.

Bear is ready. And you can decorate it as you wish.

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