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beg – begin/beginning
bet — between
BL – back loop
ch – chain stitch
CL – Cluster
cm – centimeter(s)
cont — continue
Dc – double crochet (UK treble cr)
Dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches
ea – each
FL – front loop(s)
FO – fasten off
hdc – half double crochet
hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 stitches
inc – increase
lp(s) – loops
mm – millimeter(s)
pl – place
rem – remaining
rnd(s) – round(s)
RS – right side
sc – single crochet (same as UK dc)
sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches
sk – skip
Sl st – slip stitch (same as UK sc)
Sp(s) – space(s)
St – stitch
tog — together
WS — wrong side
YO – yarn over
Yoh – yarn over hook
Harvey Thumper, Easter Bunny Assistant
Designed by Sue Pendleton
Suggested Materials: (Bunny is approximately 8.5” (21.5cm), including ears.)
• Double knitting or sport weight yarn (See how to check your yarn for
comparability on page 13.)
Beige or color of choice for main bunny color (about 150 yds)
Ivory for inside ears and feet (about 50 yds)
Pastel color for Bowtie (small qty)
Camel or tan for basket (about 25 yds)
Small quantities of various colors for eggs
• Light pink embroidery floss or perle cotton, for nose
• Dark red (wine, burgundy, etc.) embroidery floss or perle cotton for nose outline,
mouth and claws
• C Crochet hook (2.75 mm)
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Two 9-mm shoe button eyes
• One 20-mm plastic safety joint for neck
• Upholstery or other strong thread for attaching eyes and jointing limbs
• Sewing Needles, including a large blunt point tapestry needle, a two-inch needle
(such as a nr 7 darner or a nr 7 milliners), 5-inch doll needle
• Hemostat, dowel, long tweezers, or other long, narrow tool to help with stuffing
• Small needle-nose pliers/wire cutters
• 3-mm chenille stem, cut to 7 inches (17.8 cm), for basket handle
• 14-inch piece of ½”-wide (1.25 cm) spring-like ribbon for basket bow
• Watercolor pencil or makeup blusher, pink, for shading
• Small sharp scissors
A list of Internet supply sources and a list of abbreviations is provided beginning on
Gage: Gage is not important as long as the same size thread and hook are used for all the
pattern pieces. However, since tension can vary in different circumstances, it is
suggested that when making two pieces that must be the same, such as arms and legs, that
you complete both in one sitting. The same weight yarn and hook size should be used for
all pieces unless otherwise indicated.
Important Note on Stuffing: The way that you stuff Harvey can greatly affect the
quality of the finished product, especially if you are thread-jointing. You’ll be
amazed at the quantity of stuffing that each piece requires. The doll should be
stuffed firmly so that it won’t lose its shape, but not so firmly that the stitches are
pulled apart to the extent that the stuffing shows through in a distracting manner.
Weaving/hiding loose thread ends: When making the rabbit, you can hide the loose
ends by pulling them to the inside of the piece with a tapestry needle. Pass the needle
through the piece 2 or 3 times to anchor the thread end (always go in and come out
between stitches, being careful not to catch any fabric), and then pull the thread taut, and
clip close to the surface so that it disappears inside.
For other pattern pieces, it’s best to weave all loose ends as you finish each piece. If you
can’t hide the beginning tail by working over it for a few stitches, leave a tail that is long
enough to enable you to thread it onto a needle to weave it. When you fasten off, always
leave a tail that is long enough to thread onto a needle and weave. To weave: Thread the
tail onto a needle. Working on the WS of the piece and beginning directly beneath the
place where you fastened off, insert the needle underneath and through the upper loops of
fabric for a length of 4 or 5 stitches, and then turn and repeat through 2 or 3 of the same
stitches in the opposite direction.
Make an adjustable ring: Leaving a tail at the beginning, anchored between little finger
and ring finger, wrap thread around index finger and middle finger of left hand (counterclockwise
if you look with the tips of your fingers facing you). Insert hook underneath
first strand of yarn, then catch second strand with hook and pull a loop up underneath
first strand. Remove fingers of left hand from ring and hold working end of yarn. Chain
2, work number of stitches required into ring. Pull up a long loop, then, grasping the
stitches just made with right hand and tail with left (or vice versa), pull to tighten ring.
Insert hook into long loop and tighten back against hook. Making sure tail is to the back,
skip first chains worked and continue working pattern.
Rev-sc: Reverse single crochet. Insert hook into next sc to the right, YO and pull up a
loop, YO and pull through both lps on hook.
Hdc3tog: *YO and insert hook into next stitch, Yoh and pull up a loop**, repeat * to **
twice, YO and pull through all loops on hook.
HEAD: (VERTICAL MUZZLE)
1. Ch 4 with rabbit color, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, 2 sc in last ch,
continuing around to opposite side of chain, 2 sc in 1st free lp, sc in next free lp, 2 sc in
last free lp, do not join – use a short piece of contrasting thread as a rnd marker. (10 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea of next 3 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 3 sc. (16 sc)
3 – 4. Sc in ea sc around. (16 sc)
5. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin next rnd here (this is to change the beginning
point of the rounds, and does NOT change the total stitch count), (2 sc in next sc, sc in
next sc) 8 times. (24 sc) This is the bottom of the muzzle.
6. Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 5 sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 5 sc, sc in next
3 sc. (34 sc)
7. Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 6 sc, sc in next 15 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 6 sc, sc in
next 4 sc. (46 sc)
8 – 9. Sc in ea sc around. (46 sc)
10. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here; sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog 7 times, sc in
next 5 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog 7 times, sc in next 3 sc. (34 sc)
11. Sc in ea sc around. (34 sc)
12. Sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog 5 times, sc in next 3 sc,
2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog 5 times, sc in next 4 sc. (25 sc)
13 – 14. Sc in ea sc around. (25 sc)
• Place the plastic joint disk inside the head opening, with the pin protruding
downward, between rows 8 and 9, directly in line with the middle of the muzzle. Ease
the pin carefully through the fabric, between the stitches. Begin stuffing the head so
that you can be sure you have the joint pin in the right place. If it is off-center,
remove the stuffing and reposition the pin.
15. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 5 times, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc. (19 sc)
16. Sc in ea sc around. (19 sc)
17. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 5 times, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc. (13 sc)
• Continue to stuff head firmly, shaping as you go. You may wonder how this funny
looking little piece can ever be a rabbit; I certainly did the first time I made it! But as
you continue to stuff, filling out the cheeks and top of the head, and rounding out the
back of the head, a bunny shape somehow magically appears. Check your shaping
from all angles as you work.
18. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 3 times, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving
long end for sewing. (9 sc)
• Add as much stuffing as you need to in order to round out the back of the head.
• Thread long end on the tapestry needle and sew a row of gathering stitches in and out
of FL of rnd 18 sc; pull firmly but carefully to gather; fasten off. Pass the thread end
through the head a couple of times to anchor and secure. Always make sure you
bring the needle in and out between the stitches, so as not to damage the fabric. Clip
the end very close to the head, so that it will disappear inside.
NEEDLE-SCULPTING THE MUZZLE AND EYE SOCKETS. First use pins to
determine where you want to place the eyes, probably between rnds 6 and 7, with a width
of about 7 sc between them. Thread a needle using the upholstery, nylon or other strong
sewing thread that you will use to attach the eyes. Double and knot the thread, then insert
the needle into the 1st eye location; push through the head and out the 2nd eye location.
*Insert the needle back into face one sc to the inside from where it came out, push it
through the head and across* to the 1st eye location. Repeat * to *, bringing it back out
the 1st eye location. Pull to indent and force up a “ridge” on the muzzle between the
eyes. Now continue on to attach eyes.
ATTACH EYES: (Note: If Harvey is for a child under 3, consider embroidering the
eyes.) Using the same thread, insert the needle through the eye stem, and back into the
face in the eye socket. Push it through the face across to the other eye socket, pushing the
stem into the face between stitches, and pulling firmly to imbed the eye into head as
much as possible. (Remember that a rabbit’s eyes appear to be more on the side of the
head, so the more of a “ridge” between his eyes, the better.) After bringing the needle out
the 2nd eye socket, insert the needle into the 2nd eye stem, and repeat the process. Finish
by pushing the needle through to the bottom of the head; fasten off and secure, hiding
ends inside the head.
EYELIDS (OPTIONAL): With bunny color ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in next
ch, sl st in last ch, FO leaving long end.
• Sew the eyelids just above the eyes, touching the tops of the eyes, with the straight
(ch) side downward.
NOSE, MOUTH, EYEBROWS:
Use a satin stitch to embroider the nose, making a small inverted triangle. Use 2 strands
of embroidery floss, or one strand of size 12 perle cotton in pale pink or color of choice.
Frame the 2 side edges of the triangle with one straight stitch in red or black, then use the
same thread to make a straight stitch beginning at the bottom center of the nose and going
downward about the length of 2 sc. Finally, make an inverted V, with the center point of
the V touching the bottom end of the line coming down from the nose. Embroider a
straight stitch for each brow using of black embroidery floss or perle cotton, if you wish.
EARS (MAKE 2):
1. With inner ear color ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 8 ch; move around to
opposite side of ch and sc in next 9 free lps; FO. (20 sc)
2. With RS facing, join rabbit color with sc in 1st sc of row 1, sc in next 3 sc, hdc in next
4 sc, 3 dc in ea of next 2 sc, hdc in next 4 sc, sc in next 4 sc; FO, leaving long end to sew
back to front. (8 sc, 8 hdc, 6 dc)
1. With rabbit color, repeat row 1 of inner ear; do not FO, ch 1, turn. (20 sc)
2. (Row 2 is the RS.) Continuing with same color, sc in next 4 st, hdc in next 4 st, 3 dc in
ea of next 2 st, hdc in next 4 st, sc in next 4 st; FO, leaving long end to sew ear to head.
(8 sc, 8 hdc, 6 dc)
• With WS together, sew the 2 ear pieces together, sewing through the inside loops of
the outermost sc’s of ea piece. For example, insert the needle through the inside loop
of the 1st sc on the edge of the ear front, then through the inside loop of the 1st sc of
the ear back. Next, turn and insert the needle through the inside lp of the 2nd sc of the
ear back, then through the inside loop of the ear front. Continue back and forth in
this manner around to the opposite end of the ear.
• Sew the bottom opening of the ear closed.
• Fold the bottom of the ear in half vertically, so that the outer edges of the bottom
meet. Tack in place.
• Count up 6 rnds from the center rnd of the back of the head; ear may be placed
between rnds 5 and 6, with the center of the ear in line with the inside edge of the eye.
Using pins, experiment with ear placement until you find the look that’s pleasing to
you. Sew the ears to the head, placing the back edge of the vertical fold between rnds
5 and 6, and the front edges between rnds 7 and 8 (or placement of your choosing).
Leave the width of about 3 sc between the ears.
WHISKERS. Nylon thread is good for whiskers. You can use your own method or
follow my instructions as follows: Thread a needle with the thread; insert into first side
of muzzle beside the nose. Bring the needle out on the opposite side of the muzzle,
leaving a long tail protruding from the first side. Take a tiny stitch right over the spot
where your needle just came out. As you pull your needle toward you, and the thread
forms a loop, pass the needle through the loop, so that it forms a knot against the muzzle
when you pull it taut. Clip the thread to the desired length of the whisker, then trim the
opposite whisker to the same length. (It’s better to start out with the whisker threads too
long than too short.) Make 2 or 3 more whiskers in the same way.
• Finish the head by shading the edges of the eyelids, the cheeks, and around the mouth
with a pale pink pencil. You can also use makeup blusher, with a cotton swab as
1. With rabbit color ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join, place rnd marker. (6 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)
5. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 6 times. (24 sc)
6 – 9. Sc in ea sc around. (24 sc)
10. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 5 times, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc) twice. (31 sc)
At this point push the pin protruding from the bottom of the head into the center of round
1 of the body. Place the lock washer onto the pin and push flush toward head as far as it
will go, locking it into place.
11. Sc in ea sc around. (31 sc)
12. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 5 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 15 sc. (37 sc)
13. Sc in ea sc around. (37 sc)
14. (Sc2tog, sc in nest 2 sc) 5 times, sc2tog, sc in next 15 sc. (31 sc)
15. Sc in ea sc around. (31 sc)
16. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 5 times, (sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc) twice. (24 sc)
17. Sc in ea sc around. 24 sc)
• Begin stuffing.
18. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
19. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)
20. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 6 times. (12 sc)
• Continue to stuff body firmly.
21. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times. (8 sc)
• Add more stuffing if needed. Thread end on needle, then sew a row of gathering
stitches in and out of the front lps around row 21; pull firmly but gently to gather and
close. Insert the needle into the body through bottom opening and out elsewhere on
body, pulling thread taut. Insert needle into exact spot where you just brought it out,
and then bring needle out again at a different place on back of body. This will secure
thread. Pull on thread firmly and clip close to body so that the end disappears into
• Note: The part of the body that increases gradually into a “tummy” shape is the
front. Keep this in mind when you attach the arms and legs.
ARMS: (MAKE 2)
Note: Both the arms and legs have “shaping” slip stitches that will need to be loose
enough so that you are able to work into them on the next round.
1. Begin with an adjustable ring (See Special Stitches), and make 8 sc into the ring; do
not join, place rnd marker; OR ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook (the center hole will be
larger if the 2nd method is used.) (8 sc)
2. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 4 times. (12 sc)
3. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 3 times. (15 sc)
5 – 8. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)
9. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 5 times. (10 sc)
10. Sl st loosely in next 5 sc, sc in next 5 sc. (10 st)
11. Sc in next 7 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st. (11 sc)
12 – 16. Sc in ea sc around. (11 sc)
• Begin stuffing after rnd 11, and continue to add stuffing after every few rnds.
17. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, hdc in next 6 sc, sl st in next 5 sc.
(6 hdc, 5 sl st)
18 – 23c. Sc in ea st around. (11 sc)
24. (Sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog) twice, sc in next sc; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long
end. (9 sc )
• Add more stuffing if necessary to firm up top of arm.
• The arm opening will be sewn together front to back,
rather that side to side. Thread end on needle, then use a
ladder stitch to close (see illustration at right). You’ll have
a neater seam if you sew through the front lps only of row 24. Insert the needle into
the top of arm and out elsewhere on arm, pulling thread taut. Pull on thread firmly
and clip close to arm so that the end disappears inside.
• Attach the arms using the same procedure given below for the legs.
• Finish by using perle cotton or floss to make 4 long stitches around the end of each
LEGS: (MAKE 2)
1. With same color used for the inside of ears ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 8
ch, 2 sc in last ch, moving around to work on opposite side of ch, 2 sc in 1st free lp, sc in
next 9 free lps; do not join; place rnd marker. (22 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 8 sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in ea
of next 2 sc; FO with sl st in next sc. (34 sc)
3. With RS facing and working in BL, join rabbit color with sc in same pl as joining on
rnd 2 (at ctr back of heel), sc in ea sc around; do not join. (34 sc)
4. Sc in both lps of ea sc around. (34 sc)
• In order to minimize gapping between your decreases, you’ll need to make them as
tight and close together as possible. As you begin your first decrease, make sure that
the loop around your hook remains snug; don’t let it loosen as you insert the hook
into the next stitch. Bring the stitch you’re going into as close to the loop on the hook
as you can, pull up your loop, and slide it close to the first loop, keeping it snug
around the hook too. Repeat the same process pulling the third loop onto your hook.
Your decrease made, you still need to keep it very close to the next stitch after the last
decrease, so keep the loop snug around your hook, and as you insert the hook into the
next stitch, bring it as close to the loop on the hook as possible, then complete your
stitch. It’s well worth taking the extra time and effort to have a nicer appearance for
your bunny’s feet.
5. Sc in next 11 sc, sc2tog 6 times, sc in next 11 sc. (28 sc)
6. Sc in ea sc around. (28 sc)
7. Sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog 7 times, sc in next 7 sc.
8. Sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog 7 times, sc in next 3 sc. (14 sc)
9. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in
next 5 sc. (12 sc)
• Stuff foot.
10 – 14. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
• Continue stuffing as you work up the leg. As you stuff, bend the bottom part of the leg
(below the knee) forward, and bend the part of the leg above the knee backward.
15. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin next rnd here, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc,
hdc in next sc, 2 hdc in ea of next 4 sc, hdc in next sc, sl st loosely in next 3 sc. (4 sc, 10
hdc, 3 sl st)
16. Sl st loosely in next 4 sc, hdc in ea of next 2 hdc, hdc2tog 3 times, hdc in next 2 hdc,
sc in next 2 sl st, 2 sc in next sl st. (4 sl st, 7 hdc, 4 sc)
17. Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sl st, sc in ea rem st around. (16 sc)
18. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin next rnd here, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc,
2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc. (20 sc)
19 – 21. Sc in ea sc around. (20 sc)
22. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 5 times. (15 sc)
23. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 5 times; FO with sl st in next sc. (10 sc)
• Add more stuffing if necessary.
• Thread end on needle, then close the end using the same method used for arms.
• With the color perle cotton or floss of your choice, make 4 long straight stitches
around the end of each foot.
First use pins to help determine where legs will be attached. With legs pinned in
position, put bunny into sitting position; make sure the legs and bottom of body are even.
Thread the doll needle with a 30-inch length of upholstery thread, doubled to 15 inches;
do not knot end. Insert needle into the bunny’s hip where the leg joint will be (probably
about 6 rnds up from the center of the bottom), and push through body and out the
opposite side where leg placement has been determined; leave a 4 inch tail of thread
protruding from first side. Insert the needle back into the body one sc above exit point,
and push back through body, coming out one sc above the protruding tail. Then insert the
needle back into the same place from which the tail is protruding, push back through
body, and out at the lower point of the joint stitch. Pull the thread on both sides at the
same time to indent leg sockets, then insert needle into first leg from the inside. * Push
out other side, then insert needle back into leg in same place. Dip needle down and back
up to catch some stuffing to anchor the thread, then back out leg in same place as entry.
Go back into body in same place as lower part of thread joint,** through body and back
out opposite side in same place as lower part of joint on this side. Pull
thread to force 1st leg into socket. Then go into 2nd leg from inside, and
repeat * to ** for this leg, then go back through body and out the other
side just in front of the leg joint. Pull thread to tighten legs against body.
Cut thread, leaving a 4-inch tail. Make sure legs are snug against body
with a firm joint, then tie both sets of tails, using a surgeon’s knot (see
illustration at right). Thread the ends onto a needle, and pull through the
body to hide ends; clip close to body. If done correctly, end of thread should disappear
1. Begin with an Adjustable Ring and make 6 sc in ring; OR ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from
hook; do not join. (6 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 9 times. (27 sc)
5 – 8. Sc in ea sc around. (27 sc)
9. ( Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 9 times. (18 sc)
10. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 6 times. (12 sc)
• Stuff tail, not too firmly.
11. Sc2tog 6 times. (6 sc)
• Gather and close; hide thread end inside tail.
• Sew tail to center of lower back. Make sure you don’t sew it so low that the bunny
won’t be able to sit down.
1. With bow tie color ch 3; sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
2. Sc in FL of ea sc; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
3. 3 sc in 1st sc, 3 sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
4 – 9. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
10. Sc3tog twice; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
11. Fold the piece tog, having row 10 even with row 1. Inserting hook into the
corresponding stitches of row 10 and row 1 at the same time, sc in next 2 sc, thus joining
the 2 ends; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
12. Sc in next 2 sc; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
• For the 2nd loop of bow, repeat rows 3 – 10; FO, leaving long end. Fold in so that
row 10 meets row 1; sew the 2 sc of row 10 to the 2 sc of row 1 (this is the back of the
13. Beginning at back of bow and working in ends of rows around top edge of 1st loop,
join with sc in 1st row; sc in next 9 rows to center of bow, 2 sc in space between bow
loops, continue on to next bow loop and sc in ea of the 10 row ends around 2nd bow loop.
Ch 3, flip bow vertically 180 degrees, so that the unworked edge is facing up, work 10 sc
around, ch 1, 10 sc around next bow loop; you will now be back to the middle section of
1. Make 2 sc in the ch-1 sp bet lps; ch 1, turn.
2 – 6. Sc in next 2 sc; ch 1, turn. At end of row 6, FO, leaving long end for sewing. (2
• Wrap the bow center around the front of the bow, and bring the end up to meet row 1
on the back of the bow; sew row 6 to row 1.
• Sew the bow tie to the chest just below the chin.
Bottom: (Make 2)
1. Ch 4, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc; move around to other side
and make 2 sc in 1st free lp, sc in next free lp, 2 sc in last free lp; do not join. (10 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (20 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 10 times. (30 sc)
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 10 times. (40 sc)
5. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc) 5 times. (45 sc)
6. Sc in ea sc around; FO with sl st in next sc. (45 sc)
• Trace around one of the bottom pieces onto stiff plastic (e.g. from the top of a coffee
can). The plastic needs to fit inside rnd 6, so cut out inside the lines (you may need to
trim more later).
• With WS together and the plastic piece between, stitch the 2 bottom pieces together,
sewing just inside the outer lps of rnd 6 of each piece.
7. With the side that will be the outside (underneath) of the bottom of the basket facing
you, join basket color with a sc in 1st sc of the inside (upper) piece; sc in ea st around row
6 of the inside piece; join with sl st in BL of 1st sc; ch 2, do not turn. (45 sc)
8 – 10. Working in BL, hdc in ea sc around; join with sl st in top of beg ch-2, ch 2, do
not turn. At end of row 6, ch 1, do not turn. (45 hdc)
11. Sc in same pl as joining, rev-sc in ea hdc around (See Special Stitches on page 4);
FO. (45 rev sc)
Attach the chenille stem to the center top stitch of one of the short sides of the basket by
inserting it from the outside to the inside, and then twisting the end back on itself. Be
sure to crimp the end so that there are no sharp points sticking out. Gently curve the stem
over the top of the basket, and attach to the opposite side of the basket using the same
method. Now attach the basket color yarn with a sc in the same stitch where the left side
of the handle is attached to the basket. Leave a 3-inch tail at each end, to give yourself
plenty of leeway to weave the ends, as well as wrap over any of the wire that may be
showing where it’s joined. Rev-sc across the handle, keeping the stitches close together
to cover the wire, and pausing every 10 stitches or so to push the stitches as far to the left
as you can. When you reach the opposite side, finish with a Rev-sc in the stitch that this
end of the handle is in on row 11; FO.
• Cut some little strands of green yarn to fill the bottom of the basket and serve as a
pretty bed for the eggs.
• Tie the ribbon around one side of the basket handle and make a pretty bow. Trim
ends to desired length.
(MAKE SEVERAL IN VARIOUS COLORS):
1. Begin with an adjustable ring, and make 5 sc in the ring; do not join. (5 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea of next 5 sc. (10 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 5 times. (15 sc)
4 – 7. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)
8. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 5 times. (10 sc)
• Stuff the egg.
9. Sc2tog 5 times: FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for closing. (5 sc)
• Close the end with a gathering stitch using FL only around rnd 9. Pull firmly to close,
then insert the needle into the center, up through the egg, and out the top. Pull gently
to flatly out the bottom of the egg just slightly. Clip the thread close to the egg.
• Add some simple embroidery, if you wish.